Photo by Danielle Dahl
A cozy little building across from Jackson Park has housed a string of restaurants over the years, but Buena Vista Restaurant and Bar has staying power. It’s the sister restaurant of the popular Taqueria Buenavista restaurant and food truck, and the first full-service restaurant of the bunch. It’s also the only one to have a full-service bar, turning this into a place where you want to linger with friends, instead of just grabbing a quick bite.
Renovations of the interior don’t feel very modern, but everything is clean and inviting, like eating at grandma’s. Grandma didn’t just choose the mauve paper placemats, though, she also inspired one of the best salsas I’ve ever tried, affectionately called Granny Sauce. It’s the one that comes in the red squeeze bottle, and it’s a smooth, creamy lime green sauce full of bright flavor from fresh chilis. It varies in heat from batch to batch, so taste it if you’re worried—then proceed to smother everything in it. That’s not to say the three other house salsas are bad; the fresh pico de gallo-like one in the bowl is full of onions and cilantro, and the two other salsas in bottles are flavorful, if not a little sweet. You’ll find your own favorite.
Try your favorite salsa on al pastor, chorizo, or lengua tacos, among other choices ($8.25). The lengua is tender and cooked well with crispy edges, and the al pastor and chorizo have just enough flavorful grease. For someone who enjoys the crunch of the hard-shell tacos of their youth, try tacos dorados ($8.25), which are folded corn tacos deep-fried with their filling, just before serving. Diners can then pry them open carefully and add onions, cilantro, salsa and other toppings as they like. Don’t overlook the rice and beans that come with every dinner; they’re some of the best around. The beans are supremely smooth and the rice perfectly cooked.
Eight types of shrimp dinners ($11.50) are offered, with a dozen or so large shrimp in sauces ranging from mild mojo de ajo to searing chile de árbol. Don’t let the heat in the chile de árbol sauce scare you away, however. It’s extremely flavorful and rich, and copious tortillas on the side help temper the spice. Steak can be prepared in many of the same sauces, like ranchero ($8.75), or as fajitas ($10.75).
Wash everything down with a margarita, whether traditional lime or fruit flavored ($5.50 rocks, $6 blended). The mango version was so good they don’t need to offer anything else. The mango purée is light and fresh and the house tequila is smooth, putting this margarita head and shoulders above some others in the city.
If you still have room for dessert, the deep-fried cheesecake chimichangas ($5) are by far the best rendition of this cliché Tex Mex dessert. Most of the sweetness comes from the cinnamon sugar the chimi was rolled in, instead of the creamy filling, making it remarkably balanced and not sickly sweet. Drizzles of chocolate and strawberry sauce are a little superfluous, but demonstrate the kitchen’s attention to detail, which permeates every plate. It makes for a surprisingly delicious end to a great Mexican meal.
Buena Vista Restaurant and Bar
3447 W. Forest Home Ave.
414-383-3040
$
Handicap access: Yes
